Day 1 - Douglas, AZ to Huachinera, Sonora

As many of you know, last year Jumpingchollo and I set off to the Horizons Unlimited meeting in Creel on an obscure route - The Road Less Travelled. Afterall, is that not the essence of adventure riding? We ran out of time last year and modified the ride, and then even had to bug out onto pavement to get where we were going. I exchanged some emails with Ibarra, and when we met up in Hot Springs, NC at the HU meeting there this Summer, the die was cast - we were going to finish the route to Creel - but by dirt road and trails the whole way. Somewhere along the line, for each of us - at least those that would read this thread, a transformation occured. The wanderlust of exploration spread it tendrils throughout our psyche, and a motorcycle became the medium to address the obsession. Despite political, social or geographical barriers, we're all a kindred spirit on some level. Yet, the route is rugged. It's not the ride for everyone, despite the sense of adventure one may have. Good skills, and well prepared bike, is a must. This is a chain and tire eating escapade. I, rather irresponsibly, left work and really questioned the wisdom of my decision as I drove across the country. Work needed me, but I needed to ride. When I saw this, I knew I was on the right path. I'm on a mission from doG! The plan was to meet in Douglas, AZ - cross the border, and exit Agua Prieta on a lonely unmarked dirt road - and head deep into the Sonoran desert. Destination was originally projected to be Baja, with a return to Douglas. That plan turned to shit before we got started, but the excitement of the all dirt ride to Creel was a motivational endorphin that drove me once again to Mexico. Our itinerary was to remain loose - it has to in order to make the ride an emotional and physical success. The group gelled into eight riders: Ibarra Maxvert K7 Lasvegasrider Jumpingchollo Jonz Mike Morgan gaspipe (me) We congregated in Douglas Thursday night - set for a Friday departure - to allow us four full days to get to Creel. That was something Ibarra and I discussed - everything takes longer than you'd think, especially on all but forgotten trails through Mexico. LVR, JC and I rode into town late, but went right to the border and did our paperwork and got our Tourist Visas and Importation permits. We were sipping Tecates at midnight when up walks Mike Morgan! We, at that time, didn't know he was riding with us. We sent him to get his stuff done. At 0500, we were up - and the rest straggled out of bed over the next hour. Interestingly, I struck up a conversation with Jesus Davila on the sidewalk as I waited for the gang to get ready. That would be a great benefit later on. And we were off! We regrouped at the unmarked dirt road. And the RLT Part Deux was in motion! Into the desert we went.....

Jesus [Jess] Davila happened to be in the same Motel 6, and heard us talking about going to Creel. He and I chatted, he indicating he was from a small town named Huachinera. He was flabbergasted that not only did I know of it, I'd been there and WE were headed that way - TODAY! It was a pleasant conversation and we exchanged contact info and headed to the border.

As we headed south into the desert, I recalled many cattle guards - but something was wierd about them.........as I launched over the first one and caught about 4 feet of air, I remembered! They were made of railroad rail, but were oriented longitudinally to the tire rotation rather than perpendicular! These were wheel eaters! A quick stop to warn everyone was in order.

LVR was also catching air on these, and not 15 miles out of Agua Prieta, mechanical failure struck the KLR. The right footpeg sheared off, destroying the helicoils holding the peg bracket to the frame. LVR, no stranger to this, had a 'bolt' in his kit to fashion a temporary peg.

Then, K7's bike died - the sidestand switch shorted out. Eight guys, even eight good guys, means the chances for mechanical failure increases dramatically. We're not an hour into the ride, and we've two failures! K7 performs some surgery and is back in motion. Somewhere near a Cuchuverachi rancho..... LVR and I fall back to run sweep, and after a bit, we come across another rancho.

We employ a rancher near Agua Blanca to weld the footpeg bracket to the frame. Success! The 640 waits patiently as the Rancher/Caballero performs his magic with some 6011 rods and electricity on LVR's busted steel......

After about 20 minutes, we're off, riding fast and hard south towards Colonia Morelos - to catch up the group that left us behind.

LVR and I caught up to K7/'chollo/Morgan at Colonia Morelos. Greater downtown...... Jonz, Max and Ibarra took off ahead. Crank 'er up, we gotta get moving! Go straight at the graveyard! As we head south, the route becomes progressively more rugged. Graded dirt gives way to convoluted single lane road and doubletrack. The surface gets rockier and less traveled.

Yeah, baby! I live for this. LVR and I alternate running sweep to keep the slower members of the group on the right path. I remember the route well from last year. It's good that we have a few different speed riders to spread ourselves out in the dust. Jeebus...it's October and it's freakin' HOT out here!

The road gets more narrow and less travelled as we head south from Rancho Oaxaca towards La Morita..... After many miles of dust and endless curves and hills, we're rewarded with the Rio Bavispe valley...... This also signals the end of the road from the north. The route becomes more of a trail, and sand washes are ahead. These connect us with civilization again that moves north into this area, but via paved roads from Moctezuma and Huasabas. Rumor abounds that this whole dirt route will be paved before too long. The boys, struggling through miles of river washes along the base of the Sierra Xitahuaca foothills.

Into a beautiful river canyon we go. Think about what this would be like after a heavy rain....or during it.... 'chollo and I rode this same thing last year, and the surfaces were much different this year. The rainy winter really rearranged things. New scenery, new challenges. I don't mind riding in the back. It gives me a chance to ride fast [and irresponsibly ] every now and again, then stop for some pics, let the back of the pack catch up, then do it again. LVR is hip to this technique, and we trade off numerous times.

There's a KLR out there somewhere! Just absorbing it. If you just keep motoring, you miss it. There's actually a road here.

Our group broke into two parts out here in the dusty wasteland: Ibarra/Max/'Chollo/Jonz were out ahead, and MikeMorgan/K7/LVR and I brought up the rear. As we came into civilization, the first town is San Miguelito. Caballeros and vacas abound! The trail becomes a road, of sorts, again, and we make some time. LVR and I stop on the bridge to regroup the second half of our riders.

The next towns are Bavispe (fuel) and then Bacerac. Bacerac is the biggest town in the valley. Both Bavispe and Bacerac have fuel, food and rooms for rent. Bacerac has a huge, uhm, pot under construction.

No time to stop, southbound! The road to Huachinera - where Jesus Davila is from - my buddy from earlier today, and also our turn off into the Sierra Madres.

At Bavispe, I could see the tracks in the dirt that the other four waited, and then moved on. So we did also. Onward through Bacerac and towards Huachinera, about 130 miles from where we started this morning. No breakfast, no lunch. There are no LottaBurgers out here. At Huachinera, we turned into town. When Ibarra, et al, arrived, the town was waiting for us! Jess Davila phoned ahead and told them we were coming. The Mayor was there to greet us! The food was on the stove and we were greated with open arms. Me gusto mucho Mexico! Our host, whom cooked us a very spicy chili colorado style meal. Home made tortillas, beans..... fantastic!

Last year, the road south of Huachinera was dirt. It's now paved. The Mexican gobierno is making an effort to pave up to Bavispe, and onward to Agua Prieta. The goal is to draw tourism - and as selfish as I can be - I hope it takes a while before this are is all spoiled. Yet, on the other hand, these folks are working hard to try to create jobs to keep their offspring at home. More power to them. I am thinking of a mini-ADV rally/ride to Huachinera prior to next year's HU meeting. The Plaza!

Always a pretty church at the town's plaza, something they can be proud of. Cheerful workers refurbishing the plaza. Hard working fellas.

That is when I realized disaster had struck! Jonz KLR was stuck in third gear. Something failed internally and it was done for. After we had a delicious, and spicy, meal, the Mayor escorted Ibarra around the town and discussed local politics. The rest of us lazed around the plaza, resting our bones after 135 miles of desert to get here, and many more miles yet to go. K7, catching a few zzzzz's:

Main street - boy has this place cleaned up since last year!

The streets of Huachinera........

From Huachinera.com: Huachinera, in the Opata language means "Mesa de Huata Sagrada" (the mesa of the sacred cedar.) The municipality was founded by Juan Evangelista de Huachinera, in 1645 by Missionary Cristobal Garcia. The territory now occupied by the municipality was occupied in pre-Hispanic times by the Opata indians, which is proven by the archeological pieces found in the Huachinera mountains, that can be related to the Casas Grandes culture from the neighboring State of Chihuahua. The hospitality and new friendships we encountered here really restore a jaded faith in human nature. Huachinera ROCKS! LVR started eating paint chips, and things got a bit wonky after that.

We were in the same conundrum that 'chollo and I were in last year: Ride onward during daylight and take the "long road" (which I elected to do last year), or hole up in Huachinera, and take the "high road" in the morning. The locals say the high road is rough. The decision is made, and we decide to stay in Huachinera and enjoy the hospitality and new friends. Last year, there were no motels or places to stay in Huachinera, but this year, there are two rooms completed, with several more under construction. So the eight of us divide into the two rooms: two on each floor, two get beds. Us younger fellers let the old guys have the beds. Meanwhile, the Mayor and his cousin, Jess Davila, arranged for a pickup to take Jonz and his ailing machine back to the border in the morning. We took advantage of the last hour of daylight to work on the bikes, prepping them for the high road in the morning. It was a good thing we stayed where we were and didn't try to tackle it without daylight. Motorcycles, or just 'motos' en espanol, attract kids - and tonight was no exception. A group of lads assembled in the small compound where we stored the bikes - in what will be the motel foyer some day - and they helped themselves to some of our equipment and hopped on the bikes. The smiles were heartwarming.

Mike Morgan and Max snagged a couple six packs of Tecate and we worked on the bikes, did laundry (the "on the trail" method)...and enjoyed the kids, Jess Davila and the Mayor's company until darkness fell.

Young Francisco was plagued with a learning disability, but despite that malady, as well as the fierce teasing he received from his companions, he was all smiles and quite obviously a happy child. The big race! We wandered off to bed as the beer supply dwindled. LVR lent me his Korean war era air mattress - and I was comfy. In fact, too lazy to even get a sleeping bag and I slept in my clothes. I guess I was tired.....and I drifted off to sleep.....

The maps for day one: